Sunday 7: An Interview with Hannah Rochell from En Brogue

So… are you ready to meet Hannah and hear more about her sustainability pledge?

Sustainability in Fashion:

1. Kind of sounds like an oxymoron but… what *exactly* does sustainable fashion mean to you?

Just. Slow. Down. So many of us have too much stuff, but we still think that we need more. So I think the first step to being more sustainable isn’t buying more new stuff from sustainable brands, it’s just buying less stuff full stop. Re-evaulate your wardrobe – what do you need, what do you actually wear – and maybe try not buying anything new for a month. Meanwhile, educate yourself on fabrics and fibres, download the Good On You App, learn about who made your clothes, where, and in what conditions. After you’ve done all of these things that panic buy in Zara might seem less appealing…

2. You’ve taken a sustainability pledge, and from following you on Instagram, I’ve watched with interest how you are fully embracing this in all aspects of your life: which day to day aspects are most challenging?

PLASTIC. It’s everywhere and it’s infuriating how hard it is to avoid completely. I’m lucky in that I have two zero waste shops within walking distance, but they don’t sell everything I need so I still have to go to the regular supermarket because I don’t have a local grocer. I’m also lucky because I am financially secure, I have no children (well, not lucky but you know what I mean!) and I work freelance, which gives me the freedom to make decisions people in other circumstances might not have the time or means to do.

3. At the moment, I’m likening myself to a recovering ‘addict’  in that when I see the deluge of Instagram-story “try-ons”; the relentless asos-orders (“just to show you!”) or just the barrage of new-new-new, cheap-tat-cheap: I find myself feeling quite sick to the stomach.

With that in mind, I struggle seeing this type of behaviour from “insta friends” whom I’ve followed for 3 years or more, whom I’ve gotten to know well: is that just me, feeling that way?  do you feel the same? And if so, how do you reconcile those feelings?

I absolutely feel the same. I’ve hidden or unfollowed a lot of people who still do that.

It just seems so out of touch and in bad taste, but I do appreciate that we are all at different stages and although I’ve always cared about the environment, it’s only relatively recently that I’ve become hardcore about it!

So I don’t like to be judgemental. I try to open conversations where possible, because I think it’s easy to get so caught up in it all that you just don’t stop to ask questions. But once you start asking questions, you can’t stop, and you just want to tell anyone who will listen about it. Sharing information and new ways of doing things is an incredibly powerful thing to do on social media, and much more rewarding than a high street haul video!

4. Were you a big preloved clothing shopper before you took your pledge? And do you think it’s one of the best ways to clothes shop in the slow-fashion movement?

I went through a stage where I only wore vintage, other than my underwear! But I’d kind of lost touch with it so I’m excited about reconnecting with something I really loved doing in the past. And yes, it’s definitely the most sustainable ways of shopping. I’m also really excited about rental companies because it’s a great way of changing people’s ideas of “newness”.

5. I frequently hear people saying that they are selling some of their clothes to “make way for new season loveliness.” which is great – that their clothing is being recycled, but to me, I still see it as perpetuating the fast-fashion machine: what are your views on this?

Yeah, it’s a tricky one. I obviously approve of clothes going to another home when their first owner is done with them, but I personally prefer the idea of initially buying with longevity in mind.

I’ve never really been into selling clothes – I’ve obviously sold some but most of my unwanted bits go straight to the charity shop rather than resale sites. That said, if we’re all going to be buying more second hand, maybe we need the stock!

6. How many months are you now into your self imposed shopping ban (… for which I salute you by the way!) and how has it changed you? 

I’m three months in and it’s actually been really easy.

But it has changed me enormously. I have no desire to just pop to the high street and see what’s new in.  Instead, I spend my time researching smaller independent sustainable labels that I will shop from in the future.

I’m already planning my small spend next year when I start shopping again (I think I’ll give myself a maximum of 6 items) from the likes of The Acey, Stalf and Yevu.

7. As a fashion journalist, who has attended Gucci, Chanel shows… and with Sustainability in mind, how do you view Designers now, and what responsibility do you see them having in the future of Sustainable Fashion?

They and big brands, hold so much responsibility, and I do think that the whole fashion system needs to change if we are to see any real change.

The idea of seasons was already becoming slightly obsolete because the shows happen so long before the clothes go into store and people are getting impatient, so in that respect I think we’ll see fewer fashion weeks rather than more. Ultimately, though, fashion is commercial and it’s all about the money, and that’s never going to be a sustainable model. I think consumers are well ahead of the game, far more than designers, or perhaps it’s more accurate to say the directors behind the brands who employ the designers.

There are some people doing great things though, as well as the obvious Stella McCartneys of this world there are British designers such as Richard Malone and Christopher Raeburn doing some brilliant things with recycling and sticking to their principles rather than going where the money is.

I’d like to add that as a fashion journalist, I know that I also have a responsibility here. I actually don’t write any features that are trend led anymore, and earn my living writing for sustainable fashion brands and platforms. I won’t be going to fashion week anymore. I acknowledge that I’m part of the machine, and I can’t reconcile my personal beliefs with that industry in the same way anymore, so for me, what I do for a living has had to change too.

8. You’ve said you will never by fast-fashion again: which store will you most miss?

None of them! I’m having so much fun discovering slow fashion brands that I genuinely don’t think I’ll miss any of my old haunts. Well, maybe Arket a little bit…but hopefully it will continue to move in the slow fashion direction and I will feel comfortable shopping there again one day.  If I actually need something, that is.

9. Favourite #slowfashion Instagram accounts? 

I love @notbuyingnew. She limits herself to a capsule wardrobe of 30 items and is really clever with her styling. We actually have loads of very similar items in our wardrobes too! I also like @emsladedmobdson for vintage, @jesswithless for petites and @ajabarber for giving me a kick up the arse to do better.

10. Congratulations on being named as one of Marie Claire’s top 50 verified bloggers for your sustainability pledge: has this helped spur you on?

Yes definitely. It was amazing not only to be recognised for my pledge, but to be alongside such an amazing list of incredible women. I already was taking it seriously, but now I feel like I can raise the bar even higher with what I am doing and my own goals.

Personal Style:

11. It’s a cliche, but how would you describe your style? I’m not gonna limit you to 3 words though, as is common: use as many words as you like!

Lots of colour, lots of print, a little bit retro, and lots of menswear influence.

Breton, yellow and leopard.

Flats, flats, flats.

12. Worst fashion mistake?

A pair of pink patent leather loafers from Shelley’s circa 1995. I ordered them through a catalogue and I loved that they made a “grown up” noise when I walked in them! (I still have them somewhere!)

13. Fashion guilty pleasure?

Tracksuit bottoms. I love tracksuit bottoms. I always change into them when I get home from work. I’d wear them all the time if I could get away with it!

14. Fashion must have?

I don’t use the phrase ‘must have’ anymore. There are certain ways of talking about clothes that I think have shaped our attitudes to clothes in a really negative way.

‘Must have’ is one of them.

‘Need to know trends’ is another.

In fact, I prefer to talk about style, rather than fashion these days, as it implies something with longevity, rather than something that will be irrelevant in less than a year.

I realise as a fashion journalist, I am VERY guilty of perpetuating all of this but my hope is that as someone with a little bit of influence, I can help to make amends in that respect.

(NB – in no way a dig at your question! I think this is an important discussion to have!)

15. Style icons though the ages: in your 20s / 30s and now?

Damon Albarn. David Bowie. The 60s mod scene. Northern Soul. B-Boys and early hip hop. I’m sad that we don’t really have social/musical tribes anymore.

Quick-fire Questions:

• Chanel or Gucci?

Gucci

• Jarvis or Damon?

DAMON!

• Britney or Christina?

Christina at a push but I was never really bothered about either of them!

• Sound of Music or West Side Story?

West Side Story is the greatest musical of all time. So West Side Story!

• Lassie or Littlest Hobo?

Err, Littlest Hobo! I used to have a friend who played this in his band. Very cool.

• Morten Harket (A-Ha) or Mark Shaw (Then Jericho)?

Morten!

• Adidas or Nike?

Adidas. Every time.

• London or Paris?

London. I love Paris but London has been my home for 20 years. It’s a fantastic city. But I could live in Paris!